Basil
HerbOcimum basilicum
A warm-season herb — pinch the tips often and remove flower spikes to keep the leaves sweet.
Choose your climate zone and a month to see what to sow now — with botanical names, harvest times and a practical tip for each crop. A home-resilience companion to the prepping guide; everything runs in your browser.
Four distinct seasons with cool winters and warm summers (e.g. Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth). Warm crops in spring, cool crops through autumn and late winter.
Ocimum basilicum
A warm-season herb — pinch the tips often and remove flower spikes to keep the leaves sweet.
Beta vulgaris
Each 'seed' is a cluster, so thin to one seedling. The thinnings are good eating as baby leaves.
Vicia faba
A cool-season legume — sow into cold soil. Pinch the tips once flowering to deter aphids and speed the pods.
Brassica oleracea (Italica)
Cut the main head with stalk and side shoots keep coming for weeks.
Brassica oleracea (Gemmifera)
A long, cold crop — they need real cold to firm up. Pick from the bottom of the stalk upward.
Brassica oleracea (Capitata)
Feed steadily for tight hearts. Net against cabbage moth from day one.
Capsicum annuum
Slow to start in the cool — bottom heat helps germination. Pinch the first flower for a stronger plant.
Daucus carota
Sow direct into fine, stone-free soil — never transplant. Keep the surface damp until the slow seed strikes.
Capsicum spp.
Loves heat and a long season. Hold back water and feeding as fruit ripens to sharpen the heat.
Phaseolus vulgaris
Sow straight into warm soil; seedlings sulk when transplanted. Pick daily to keep them cropping.
Coriandrum sativum
Bolts the moment it's warm — grow it through the cooler months and sow a little, often.
Cucumis sativus
Trellis to keep fruit off wet ground. Pick often and small — one overgrown cucumber stalls the whole vine.
Solanum melongena
Warm soil is everything. Net young plants against fruit fly and harvest while the skin is still glossy.
Allium sativum
Plant single cloves at the cool turn of autumn, pointy end up. Stop watering once the tops yellow.
Brassica oleracea (Acephala)
Sweeter after a cool night. Net early or squash cabbage-white caterpillars — they find it fast.
Allium ampeloprasum
Plant deep in a dibbed hole and don't backfill — the long blanched white shaft is the prize.
Lactuca sativa
Bolts in heat — pick outer leaves to keep one plant going for weeks, and sow a few at a time.
Petroselinum crispum
Slow to germinate — soak the seed overnight first. A biennial, so it crops for the best part of a year.
Pastinaca sativa
Slow and stubborn to germinate — use fresh seed and keep moist. A frost sweetens the roots.
Solanum tuberosum
Plant certified seed potatoes, not supermarket ones, and mound soil over the stems as they grow to swell the tubers.
Cucurbita maxima
Give it room to ramble. Leave fruit on the vine until the stem corks, then cure in the sun a fortnight.
Raphanus sativus
The quick win — ready in a month. Pull promptly before they turn woody and hot.
Eruca vesicaria
Fast and forgiving. Sow a short row every fortnight; flavour turns hot and bitter once it bolts.
Beta vulgaris var. cicla
The workhorse. Harvest outer stalks and it keeps throwing new growth for months.
Pisum sativum
A cool-season crop — sow when nights turn cold. Give them something to climb early.
Allium fistulosum
Snip what you need and leave the roots — many varieties simply regrow.
Zea mays
Sow in a block, not a row, so wind can pollinate it — sparse blocks give gappy cobs.
Ipomoea batatas
Plant rooted slips, not seed. Thrives in warmth; lift before the first cool snap dulls the tubers.
Solanum lycopersicum
Plant deep, stake at planting and water the soil — not the leaves — to dodge fungal disease in the humidity.
Cucurbita pepo
Hand-pollinate on humid mornings if fruit rots at the tip. Harvest at 15–20 cm; they bloat fast.
Ocimum basilicum
A warm-season herb — pinch the tips often and remove flower spikes to keep the leaves sweet.
Beta vulgaris
Each 'seed' is a cluster, so thin to one seedling. The thinnings are good eating as baby leaves.
Vicia faba
A cool-season legume — sow into cold soil. Pinch the tips once flowering to deter aphids and speed the pods.
Brassica oleracea (Italica)
Cut the main head with stalk and side shoots keep coming for weeks.
Brassica oleracea (Capitata)
Feed steadily for tight hearts. Net against cabbage moth from day one.
Capsicum annuum
Slow to start in the cool — bottom heat helps germination. Pinch the first flower for a stronger plant.
Daucus carota
Sow direct into fine, stone-free soil — never transplant. Keep the surface damp until the slow seed strikes.
Capsicum spp.
Loves heat and a long season. Hold back water and feeding as fruit ripens to sharpen the heat.
Phaseolus vulgaris
Sow straight into warm soil; seedlings sulk when transplanted. Pick daily to keep them cropping.
Coriandrum sativum
Bolts the moment it's warm — grow it through the cooler months and sow a little, often.
Cucumis sativus
Trellis to keep fruit off wet ground. Pick often and small — one overgrown cucumber stalls the whole vine.
Solanum melongena
Warm soil is everything. Net young plants against fruit fly and harvest while the skin is still glossy.
Allium sativum
Plant single cloves at the cool turn of autumn, pointy end up. Stop watering once the tops yellow.
Brassica oleracea (Acephala)
Sweeter after a cool night. Net early or squash cabbage-white caterpillars — they find it fast.
Allium ampeloprasum
Plant deep in a dibbed hole and don't backfill — the long blanched white shaft is the prize.
Lactuca sativa
Bolts in heat — pick outer leaves to keep one plant going for weeks, and sow a few at a time.
Brassica rapa (Chinensis)
A fast Asian green, ready in weeks. Sow in the cool so it doesn't bolt straight to flower.
Petroselinum crispum
Slow to germinate — soak the seed overnight first. A biennial, so it crops for the best part of a year.
Solanum tuberosum
Plant certified seed potatoes, not supermarket ones, and mound soil over the stems as they grow to swell the tubers.
Cucurbita maxima
Give it room to ramble. Leave fruit on the vine until the stem corks, then cure in the sun a fortnight.
Raphanus sativus
The quick win — ready in a month. Pull promptly before they turn woody and hot.
Eruca vesicaria
Fast and forgiving. Sow a short row every fortnight; flavour turns hot and bitter once it bolts.
Beta vulgaris var. cicla
The workhorse. Harvest outer stalks and it keeps throwing new growth for months.
Pisum sativum
A cool-season crop — sow when nights turn cold. Give them something to climb early.
Allium fistulosum
Snip what you need and leave the roots — many varieties simply regrow.
Zea mays
Sow in a block, not a row, so wind can pollinate it — sparse blocks give gappy cobs.
Ipomoea batatas
Plant rooted slips, not seed. Thrives in warmth; lift before the first cool snap dulls the tubers.
Solanum lycopersicum
Plant deep, stake at planting and water the soil — not the leaves — to dodge fungal disease in the humidity.
Cucurbita pepo
Hand-pollinate on humid mornings if fruit rots at the tip. Harvest at 15–20 cm; they bloat fast.
Ocimum basilicum
A warm-season herb — pinch the tips often and remove flower spikes to keep the leaves sweet.
Beta vulgaris
Each 'seed' is a cluster, so thin to one seedling. The thinnings are good eating as baby leaves.
Brassica oleracea (Italica)
Cut the main head with stalk and side shoots keep coming for weeks.
Brassica oleracea (Capitata)
Feed steadily for tight hearts. Net against cabbage moth from day one.
Capsicum annuum
Slow to start in the cool — bottom heat helps germination. Pinch the first flower for a stronger plant.
Daucus carota
Sow direct into fine, stone-free soil — never transplant. Keep the surface damp until the slow seed strikes.
Capsicum spp.
Loves heat and a long season. Hold back water and feeding as fruit ripens to sharpen the heat.
Phaseolus vulgaris
Sow straight into warm soil; seedlings sulk when transplanted. Pick daily to keep them cropping.
Coriandrum sativum
Bolts the moment it's warm — grow it through the cooler months and sow a little, often.
Cucumis sativus
Trellis to keep fruit off wet ground. Pick often and small — one overgrown cucumber stalls the whole vine.
Solanum melongena
Warm soil is everything. Net young plants against fruit fly and harvest while the skin is still glossy.
Allium sativum
Plant single cloves at the cool turn of autumn, pointy end up. Stop watering once the tops yellow.
Zingiber officinale
Plant plump rhizome pieces with a visible bud in warm, rich soil; harvest once the leaves die back.
Brassica oleracea (Acephala)
Sweeter after a cool night. Net early or squash cabbage-white caterpillars — they find it fast.
Lactuca sativa
Bolts in heat — pick outer leaves to keep one plant going for weeks, and sow a few at a time.
Abelmoschus esculentus
Loves heat. Pick the pods young at 8–10 cm or they turn stringy; wear sleeves, the plants can irritate skin.
Brassica rapa (Chinensis)
A fast Asian green, ready in weeks. Sow in the cool so it doesn't bolt straight to flower.
Petroselinum crispum
Slow to germinate — soak the seed overnight first. A biennial, so it crops for the best part of a year.
Cucurbita maxima
Give it room to ramble. Leave fruit on the vine until the stem corks, then cure in the sun a fortnight.
Raphanus sativus
The quick win — ready in a month. Pull promptly before they turn woody and hot.
Eruca vesicaria
Fast and forgiving. Sow a short row every fortnight; flavour turns hot and bitter once it bolts.
Beta vulgaris var. cicla
The workhorse. Harvest outer stalks and it keeps throwing new growth for months.
Vigna unguiculata ssp. sesquipedalis
A vigorous warm-climate climber — pick the long pods before the beans swell for the best texture.
Pisum sativum
A cool-season crop — sow when nights turn cold. Give them something to climb early.
Allium fistulosum
Snip what you need and leave the roots — many varieties simply regrow.
Zea mays
Sow in a block, not a row, so wind can pollinate it — sparse blocks give gappy cobs.
Ipomoea batatas
Plant rooted slips, not seed. Thrives in warmth; lift before the first cool snap dulls the tubers.
Solanum lycopersicum
Plant deep, stake at planting and water the soil — not the leaves — to dodge fungal disease in the humidity.
Cucurbita pepo
Hand-pollinate on humid mornings if fruit rots at the tip. Harvest at 15–20 cm; they bloat fast.
Ocimum basilicum
A warm-season herb — pinch the tips often and remove flower spikes to keep the leaves sweet.
Beta vulgaris
Each 'seed' is a cluster, so thin to one seedling. The thinnings are good eating as baby leaves.
Brassica oleracea (Italica)
Cut the main head with stalk and side shoots keep coming for weeks.
Brassica oleracea (Capitata)
Feed steadily for tight hearts. Net against cabbage moth from day one.
Capsicum annuum
Slow to start in the cool — bottom heat helps germination. Pinch the first flower for a stronger plant.
Daucus carota
Sow direct into fine, stone-free soil — never transplant. Keep the surface damp until the slow seed strikes.
Capsicum spp.
Loves heat and a long season. Hold back water and feeding as fruit ripens to sharpen the heat.
Phaseolus vulgaris
Sow straight into warm soil; seedlings sulk when transplanted. Pick daily to keep them cropping.
Coriandrum sativum
Bolts the moment it's warm — grow it through the cooler months and sow a little, often.
Cucumis sativus
Trellis to keep fruit off wet ground. Pick often and small — one overgrown cucumber stalls the whole vine.
Solanum melongena
Warm soil is everything. Net young plants against fruit fly and harvest while the skin is still glossy.
Zingiber officinale
Plant plump rhizome pieces with a visible bud in warm, rich soil; harvest once the leaves die back.
Brassica oleracea (Acephala)
Sweeter after a cool night. Net early or squash cabbage-white caterpillars — they find it fast.
Lactuca sativa
Bolts in heat — pick outer leaves to keep one plant going for weeks, and sow a few at a time.
Abelmoschus esculentus
Loves heat. Pick the pods young at 8–10 cm or they turn stringy; wear sleeves, the plants can irritate skin.
Brassica rapa (Chinensis)
A fast Asian green, ready in weeks. Sow in the cool so it doesn't bolt straight to flower.
Petroselinum crispum
Slow to germinate — soak the seed overnight first. A biennial, so it crops for the best part of a year.
Cucurbita maxima
Give it room to ramble. Leave fruit on the vine until the stem corks, then cure in the sun a fortnight.
Raphanus sativus
The quick win — ready in a month. Pull promptly before they turn woody and hot.
Eruca vesicaria
Fast and forgiving. Sow a short row every fortnight; flavour turns hot and bitter once it bolts.
Hibiscus sabdariffa
Grown for its tangy calyces — pick them young and tender just after the petals drop, for jam and cordial.
Beta vulgaris var. cicla
The workhorse. Harvest outer stalks and it keeps throwing new growth for months.
Vigna unguiculata ssp. sesquipedalis
A vigorous warm-climate climber — pick the long pods before the beans swell for the best texture.
Pisum sativum
A cool-season crop — sow when nights turn cold. Give them something to climb early.
Allium fistulosum
Snip what you need and leave the roots — many varieties simply regrow.
Zea mays
Sow in a block, not a row, so wind can pollinate it — sparse blocks give gappy cobs.
Ipomoea batatas
Plant rooted slips, not seed. Thrives in warmth; lift before the first cool snap dulls the tubers.
Colocasia esculenta
Wants wet feet — grow in damp, rich ground. Always cook the corms and leaves; raw they're an irritant.
Solanum lycopersicum
Plant deep, stake at planting and water the soil — not the leaves — to dodge fungal disease in the humidity.
Cucurbita pepo
Hand-pollinate on humid mornings if fruit rots at the tip. Harvest at 15–20 cm; they bloat fast.
Ocimum basilicum
A warm-season herb — pinch the tips often and remove flower spikes to keep the leaves sweet.
Beta vulgaris
Each 'seed' is a cluster, so thin to one seedling. The thinnings are good eating as baby leaves.
Brassica oleracea (Italica)
Cut the main head with stalk and side shoots keep coming for weeks.
Brassica oleracea (Capitata)
Feed steadily for tight hearts. Net against cabbage moth from day one.
Capsicum annuum
Slow to start in the cool — bottom heat helps germination. Pinch the first flower for a stronger plant.
Daucus carota
Sow direct into fine, stone-free soil — never transplant. Keep the surface damp until the slow seed strikes.
Capsicum spp.
Loves heat and a long season. Hold back water and feeding as fruit ripens to sharpen the heat.
Phaseolus vulgaris
Sow straight into warm soil; seedlings sulk when transplanted. Pick daily to keep them cropping.
Coriandrum sativum
Bolts the moment it's warm — grow it through the cooler months and sow a little, often.
Cucumis sativus
Trellis to keep fruit off wet ground. Pick often and small — one overgrown cucumber stalls the whole vine.
Solanum melongena
Warm soil is everything. Net young plants against fruit fly and harvest while the skin is still glossy.
Allium sativum
Plant single cloves at the cool turn of autumn, pointy end up. Stop watering once the tops yellow.
Brassica oleracea (Acephala)
Sweeter after a cool night. Net early or squash cabbage-white caterpillars — they find it fast.
Lactuca sativa
Bolts in heat — pick outer leaves to keep one plant going for weeks, and sow a few at a time.
Abelmoschus esculentus
Loves heat. Pick the pods young at 8–10 cm or they turn stringy; wear sleeves, the plants can irritate skin.
Brassica rapa (Chinensis)
A fast Asian green, ready in weeks. Sow in the cool so it doesn't bolt straight to flower.
Petroselinum crispum
Slow to germinate — soak the seed overnight first. A biennial, so it crops for the best part of a year.
Cucurbita maxima
Give it room to ramble. Leave fruit on the vine until the stem corks, then cure in the sun a fortnight.
Raphanus sativus
The quick win — ready in a month. Pull promptly before they turn woody and hot.
Eruca vesicaria
Fast and forgiving. Sow a short row every fortnight; flavour turns hot and bitter once it bolts.
Cucumis melo
Thrives in dry heat. Ripe when the fruit slips cleanly from the stem and smells sweet at the base.
Beta vulgaris var. cicla
The workhorse. Harvest outer stalks and it keeps throwing new growth for months.
Pisum sativum
A cool-season crop — sow when nights turn cold. Give them something to climb early.
Allium fistulosum
Snip what you need and leave the roots — many varieties simply regrow.
Zea mays
Sow in a block, not a row, so wind can pollinate it — sparse blocks give gappy cobs.
Ipomoea batatas
Plant rooted slips, not seed. Thrives in warmth; lift before the first cool snap dulls the tubers.
Solanum lycopersicum
Plant deep, stake at planting and water the soil — not the leaves — to dodge fungal disease in the humidity.
Citrullus lanatus
Needs heat, room and steady water until the fruit sets — then ease off to concentrate the sugars.
Cucurbita pepo
Hand-pollinate on humid mornings if fruit rots at the tip. Harvest at 15–20 cm; they bloat fast.
Nothing's in its main sowing window this month for this zone — try the month either side, or "All year".
Sowing windows are general guidance for each zone; your own microclimate, aspect and the season's weather always have the final say. Botanical names and broad sowing windows are factual; the growing notes are my own.